Wednesday, June 28, 2006


The ferry from Sumatra to Nias Island takes 12 hours overnight and is extremely ghetto. Its passengers were scary violent pirates. At this point an old man was standing outside their cabin door and gesturing that he planned to cut off Noah's head.

So Ryan opened a bottle of Asoka rice whiskey. A long and scary night.

Then the sun came up, the boat landed, and the pirates evaporated in the heat.
Welcome to Nias.

As they rode to their destination, Lagundri Bay, they were excited to recognize the backdrop, so familiar from films and photographs.

The Sorake Village (where they stayed) soccer field, mind the stream and the coral, during a rare empty moment. Serius Losmen (the guest house they stayed in) in the background.

Tsunami removed this house. Few people were hurt in the tsunami since most noticed the warning signs and fled inland.

Sorake shoreline over the reef, which was raised by the 2005 earthquake.

For the next month they surfed about 5 to 8 hours a day.

Nia claims these children are all hers, their fathers swept away by the tsunami. Funny, funny. Other than Nia, the daughter of the owners of the losmen they stayed in, Noah and Ryan saw very few women in Lagundri. No women from Nias surf, and Nia laughed at the suggestion.

German Mattias, Little G (aka Tankius) - younger brother of Nia and Serius- presiding, and Santos' Sketchy Friend on the far right. Just about every local guy under 40 surfs extremely well.

Little G's dance style defies genre.


Lots of Catholics on Nias.

Pastor Mike will be on Nias at Lugundri Bay for one year, missionizing on money donated by church members in western Australia. By "missionizing" we mean eating, sleeping, and surfing.

One day they paid a fisherman to take them out to the channel in his outrigger canoe. Noah, Ryan, and Marcus took turns taking pictures. Noah gets a barrel.

Ryan turns on a glassy shoulder.

Noah circa 1975

Ryan off the top.

Noah comes in for lunch.

"Indicators", up the Bay, indicates when set waves are coming. It is perfect, but too shallow to surf.

Marcus reads "The Only Way to Stop Smoking Permanently" by Alan Carr.

Pastor Mike breaks a brand-new board... another letter goes off to the charitable folks of West Oz.

Little G sees a new repaired board in his future.

Lagundri Bay formal night.

Noah after a tough day at the office.

Marcus gets very drunk and quietly tells Pastor Mike what he thinks of him. They never speak again. The Champ evesdrops.

Rahel is a nice, easy-going guy, an incredible surfer, proficient in five languages, and, if you're interested, he is available and looking.

One day they went to surf a wave called Rockstar, about an hour's drive from Lagundri. Rahel and his younger cousin, The Champ, took them.

Marcus' music.

Rice paddies along the way.

A creek to the sea.

Rockstar locals.

The wave at Rockstar is very fast and breaks right on shore.

Rahel is Spiderman.

Hey, The Champ, nice air.

Downtown Tuluk Dalam, nearest town to Lagundri.


Another cabbageburger for Noah.

A bush pig was to be slaughtered for a village feast. For some "I should be able to kill it if I am going to eat it" reason, Marcus volunteered. However, he struck a rib with the big rusty sword and the pig began to squeal like crazy.

So Rahel did the deed. He found it very unpleasant.

Rahel goes into the water to recuperate.

Cleaning the pig.

How do you feel about eating pigs?

The meal is ready.

Noah and Ryan very excited about their first meat in a month.

A happy occasion.

Another village par-tay. Somebody's engagement, maybe?

Titus frequently enjoys.

Titus the spearfisherman and his Asoka.

Guy Who Surfs Amazing Goofyfoot and Rahel do a duet.


On the balcony at Serius Losmen.


Fishing in the channel.

Snapper dinner.

5am surf check.

Sunrise from the balcony.

Goodbye Nias.

After a less traumatic ferry ride back to Sumatra, and a 13 hour bus ride across the equator, they had a two day pause in Padang.

Ryan gets a mullet in Padang.

Then a flight to Singapore and one night out on the town. Here on the immaculate Singapore subway with too much luggage.

Hong Kong! for a few days

Then home.